Author: homeforpickleball

  • Explaining How Pickleball Paddles Are Made

    Pickleball paddles may look simple on the surface, but there’s a surprising amount of engineering packed into each one. Behind the graphics and marketing claims, paddle performance is shaped by a series of deliberate design choices, such as how the core is built, how the face layers are stacked, how weight is distributed, and how everything is bonded together.

    Today, there are roughly twenty major paddle brands and countless off-brand manufacturers producing hundreds of paddle models. While many of them use similar language to describe power, control, and spin, the actual differences come down to how the paddle is made, not how it’s marketed.

    This guide is not a paddle buying guide. Instead, it’s a technical breakdown of how pickleball paddles are constructed, written to help you understand what’s happening inside the paddle and not just how it feels when you hit with it. By the end of this article, you’ll know how to read a paddle spec sheet, understand common construction terminology, and recognize how specific materials and build methods influence performance on the court.

    This is a detailed, behind-the-scenes look at paddle design, so if you enjoy learning how equipment works at a deeper level, you’re in the right place. And if you’d rather skip the engineering side and focus purely on choosing the right paddle for your game, I also have a separate guide that covers that approach in a more performance-driven way.

    The Core Elements That Define Pickleball Paddle Construction

    After reviewing and testing paddles consistently since 2024, I’ve found that five factors account for the vast majority of how a paddle performs. While marketing materials often emphasize surface grit or cosmetic design, these five elements tell you far more about real-world playability:

    1. Core thickness and core material
    2. Paddle shape
    3. Facing materials and layup configuration
    4. Weight distribution (static weight, swingweight, twistweight)
    5. Construction method

    When you understand how these elements work together, you can look at almost any paddle spec sheet and form a very accurate expectation of how that paddle will feel and perform.

    Core Thickness and Core Material (The Most Important Spec)

    If you only focus on one paddle spec, it should be the core. Core thickness and material influence feel, control, forgiveness, stability, and power more than any other factor.

    Core Thickness Explained

    Most modern pickleball paddles range from 10mm to 20mm thick, but the vast majority fall into either the 14mm or 16mm categories.

    Thick Core Paddles (16mm and Above)

    A 16mm core is widely considered the modern standard. Thicker cores absorb more impact energy, resulting in:

    • A softer feel
    • A larger sweet spot
    • Better stability on off-center hits
    • Reduced vibration and shock

    Also Read: Best 16mm core paddles

    These paddles are generally easier to play with, especially in doubles, kitchen exchanges, and defensive situations. The tradeoff is reduced maneuverability and slightly less pop on quick hands battles.

    Paddles thicker than 16mm are uncommon but can be useful in edge-guard-less designs where additional thickness adds stability.

    Thin Core Paddles (14mm)

    Fourteen-millimeter paddles feel faster and more responsive. They offer:

    • Increased pop and ball speed
    • Better maneuverability
    • Quicker reaction at the net

    However, thinner cores usually sacrifice forgiveness and stability, especially on mishits. They tend to suit aggressive players who generate their own control and value speed over plush feel.

    General rule:

    • Thicker core = control, forgiveness, comfort
    • Thinner core = speed, pop, offense

    Also Read: Best 14mm core paddles

    Core Material Types

    Core material determines how impact energy is absorbed and returned to the ball.

    Polypropylene (Polymer) Honeycomb Core

    Polypropylene honeycomb cores have dominated pickleball paddle construction for years. While they all look similar, performance varies based on several internal factors:

    • Honeycomb cell size:
      Larger cells increase rebound and power but reduce consistency. Smaller cells feel denser and more controlled.
    • Cell wall thickness:
      Thinner walls increase pop; thicker walls dampen power.
    • Polymer density:
      Softer polymers feel livelier, while rigid polymers feel muted and controlled.

    Manufacturers rarely disclose all of these details, which is why two polymer paddles with identical thickness can feel completely different.

    Some paddles also include foam injected around the perimeter of the polymer core. Depending on placement and density, foam can improve stability, reduce vibration, or slightly increase power.

    Full Foam Core Paddles

    Introduced in 2025, full foam core paddles replace the honeycomb structure with a solid foam interior. This design offers:

    • A softer, more consistent impact feel
    • Improved durability
    • Better retention of performance over time

    While foam cores are still evolving, early designs suggest they may solve long-standing durability issues seen in polymer cores.

    Paddle Shape and How It Affects Performance

    Paddle shape directly impacts reach, forgiveness, swing feel, and balance. According to USAP rules, the combined length and width of a paddle cannot exceed 24 inches. Within that limit, three dominant shapes have emerged.

    Common Pickleball Paddle Shapes

    Elongated Paddles (≈16.5” x 7.5”)

    Elongated paddles offer:

    • Extra reach
    • Higher swingweight
    • Increased leverage for power and spin

    The downside is reduced forgiveness and increased head heaviness, which can make them more demanding to use.

    Hybrid Paddles (≈16.25” x 7.5–7.7”)

    Hybrid paddles balance reach and forgiveness. They:

    • Feel more neutral in hand
    • Offer good power without extreme head heaviness
    • Work well for both singles and doubles

    Widebody / Standard Paddles (≈16” x 8”)

    Widebody paddles prioritize:

    • Forgiveness
    • Maneuverability
    • Larger sweet spots

    They sacrifice some reach but are excellent for control-oriented players and fast hands at the net.

    Shape Recommendation

    For most recreational and intermediate players, hybrid and widebody paddles are the best choice. Paddle technology has advanced to the point where power is available in every shape, making elongated paddles less necessary unless extra reach is a priority.

    Also Read: Best Paddles for Beginners

    Paddle Face Materials and Layup Design

    The paddle face determines how the ball interacts with the surface, influencing feel, spin, and power.

    Common Facing Materials

    • Carbon Fiber: Best balance of control, spin, and consistency. T700 carbon fiber is the current gold standard.
    • Fiberglass: The most powerful material, but harsh feeling with a smaller sweet spot.
    • Kevlar (Aramid): Slightly more powerful than carbon fiber with a firmer feel.
    • Titanium (Polyester Weave): Softer, muted feel with reduced pop—ideal for control paddles.

    Facing Layups Explained

    Most paddles use multiple layers of material. Common configurations include:

    • Carbon / Carbon / Fiberglass: Control on soft shots, power on full swings
    • Carbon / Fiberglass / Carbon: Easier access to pop
    • Carbon / Carbon / Carbon: Maximum consistency and sweet spot size

    Layup design allows brands to fine-tune how a paddle behaves across different shot types.

    Weight Distribution: Static Weight vs Swingweight vs Twistweight

    Static weight tells you how heavy a paddle is overall, but swingweight and twistweight are far more important.

    • Swingweight: How heavy the paddle feels when swinging. Higher = more power, slower hands.
    • Twistweight: Resistance to twisting on off-center hits. Higher = larger sweet spot.

    Ideal Ranges for Most Players

    • Swingweight: 112–118
    • Twistweight: 6.0 or higher

    Elongated paddles usually have higher swingweight and lower twistweight, while widebody paddles feel quicker and more forgiving.

    Pickleball Paddle Construction Methods

    Construction method influences feel and durability, but should not outweigh core, shape, or weight distribution.

    • Cold Pressed (Gen 1): Plush feel, excellent durability
    • Light Thermoformed (Gen 1.5): Added foam perimeter, control-focused
    • Full Thermoformed (Gen 2): More power and rigidity
    • Dual Foam Edge (Gen 3): Increased perimeter stability
    • Full Foam Core (Gen 4): Enhanced durability and feel consistency

    Newer does not always mean better; each method serves different play styles.

    Final Thoughts

    Modern pickleball paddles are far more complex than they appear. What looks like a simple slab of composite material is actually a carefully engineered system built from specific core materials, layered face constructions, controlled weight distribution, and distinct manufacturing processes.

    Understanding how pickleball paddles are made removes much of the mystery behind why paddles feel different from one another. Core thickness explains softness and stability. Face materials determine feel and spin. Weight distribution dictates maneuverability. Construction methods also influence durability and long-term performance.

    You don’t need to memorize every specification to appreciate paddle design, but knowing how these elements work together gives you a clearer picture of what’s happening inside the paddle every time the ball makes contact.

    As paddle technology continues to evolve with foam cores, new face materials, and hybrid construction methods the best way to stay informed is to understand the fundamentals of paddle manufacturing. Once you do, spec sheets become meaningful, marketing claims become easier to evaluate, and paddle innovation starts to make a lot more sense.

    FAQ’s

    What materials are pickleball paddles made from?
    Most paddles use a polymer or foam core combined with carbon fiber, fiberglass, kevlar, or titanium face layers.

    How are paddle layers bonded together?
    Layers are bonded using pressure and heat (thermoforming) or adhesives (cold pressing).

    Why do some paddles lose performance over time?
    Polymer cores can collapse slightly with repeated impact, reducing pop and feel.

    Are foam-core paddles more durable?
    Early data suggests foam cores retain their shape and performance longer.

    Does thermoforming make a paddle better?
    Not necessarily. It changes feel and power, but doesn’t guarantee better performance for every player.

  • Detailed Review of the PaddleTek Bantam TKO-CX

    Detailed Review of the PaddleTek Bantam TKO-CX

    I used both the 14.3mm and 12.7mm versions of the Paddletek Bantam TKO-CX, and hands down, this is one of the most stable pickleball paddles I’ve used to date. At its price point, it’s a serious dark horse among professional paddles, especially for players who value consistency and predictability under pressure.

    This paddle doesn’t rely on hype or exaggerated power numbers. Instead, it delivers something far more valuable: trust. Whether you’re blocking at the kitchen or driving from the baseline, the paddle behaves the same way every time.

    To test the Bantam TKO-CX, I used both the 12.7mm and 14.3mm models for about two weeks. During the course of this period, I did several drills as well as played rec games with it. Since a local tournament organized by my buddy also took place during the two weeks, I ended up playing a 4.5 DUPR-rated singles tournament with the 12.7mm version as well. I’ll discuss the specs below in this article, but that apart from that, solely based on personal use, I personally would recommend this paddle to players of all levels and particularly to those players who need a paddle that is durable even after playing in competitions.

    First Impressions on Court

    The first thing I noticed was the twist weight. Even on off-center hits, the paddle face stayed remarkably square. There was no flutter, no unexpected deflection, just clean contact.

    The elongated shape adds reach, but what stood out more was the balance. Neither version felt overly head-heavy or whippy, which made transitions at the kitchen feel natural.

    But as you all know, I love customizing all the paddles I use, so I did add tungsten tape to the throat of this paddle as well, at first I did add tungsten tape to the top half of the 12.7 version, but it wasnt needed, as I did not feel any visible difference in dead spot contacts. Overall, right from the get-go, both versions of the PaddleTek Bantam TKO-CX performed well, and I did not feel the need for a break in period with them.

    12.7mm Version

    The 12.7mm Bantam TKO-CX is the more aggressive of the two. You’ll need some time working on dropshots and dinks, but if you are getting caught often during fast hands, this is the tool that will help you fix it.

    • Swing Weight: Medium, quick through the air
    • Dwell Time: Shorter, more direct
    • Twist Weight: Excellent for a thinner core

    Baseline drives came off crisp and penetrating, but never out of control. Counter-attacks felt sharp, especially on backhand punches. You do feel the ball leave the face quicker, so touch shots require a bit more discipline.

    This version suits players who like to dictate rallies without using a paddle that feels jumpy.

    14.3mm Version

    The 14.3mm version is where the paddle truly shines for doubles play. Although it is a head-heavy paddle, I would not recommend it if you have wrist issues or a weak wrist in general.

    • Swing Weight: Slightly higher but still very manageable
    • Dwell Time: Noticeably longer
    • Twist Weight: Outstanding

    Dinks stayed low. Drops landed exactly where I aimed them. Blocks against hard speed-ups felt effortless, and backhand counters stayed compact instead of flying long.

    If you spend most of your time at the kitchen or rely on resets and placement, this is the safer and smarter choice.

    Dwell Time, Twist Weight & Swing Weight Explained

    One of the reasons the Bantam TKO-CX plays so consistently is how well these three factors are balanced:

    • Dwell Time: Enough to guide the ball without feeling mushy
    • Twist Weight: Keeps the paddle face stable on mishits
    • Swing Weight: Balanced so you don’t feel rushed in hands battles

    This combination makes the paddle extremely forgiving, especially late in long matches.

    Materials and Paddle Technology

    PT-700 Raw Carbon Fiber Face

    The unidirectional PT-700 carbon face provides a clean, predictable response. Spin is solid without feeling overly gritty, and the feedback is crisp without being harsh.

    Bantam QRT Polymer Core

    Paddletek’s Quick Response Technology polymer core activates progressively. Swing harder, and you get power; gear down, and you get control. This is why both thicknesses feel usable across different play styles.

    PT-07 Matrix Stabilization Layer

    This internal layer improves consistency across the face and plays a major role in the paddle’s high twist weight and stability.

    Edge Guard & Construction

    The shock-absorbing edge guard reduces vibration and adds durability without deadening the feel.

    What I really like about PaddleTek is that they offer an additional discount for US Army officials, which is a good gesture, as Pickleball is all about spreading joy in the world. Apart from this, from a customer perspective, I really like the price point of the Bantam TKO series. Without being biased, this paddle is truly one of the best on the market.

    Please note: Here, I am not describing what the technology does; I am explaining how the paddle performs due to the technology that is used.

    Handle, Grip, and Ergonomics

    The 5.75″ handle is a big plus, especially for players using two-handed backhands. It adds leverage on drives and helps with reach without sacrificing control.

    Grip circumference sits around 4.25″, which works well for most players. The stock grip has good tack and cushioning, though adding an overgrip fine-tunes the feel even more.

    Pricing

    In terms of pricing, the Paddletek Bantam TKO-CX typically retails at $249.99 USD for both the 12.7 mm and 14.3 mm models, which places it squarely in the pro-level pickleball paddle category. That price reflects its premium carbon construction, elongated shape, and performance-focused design. At the moment, the PaddleTek website is running a $50 off, offer, dropping the price to the $199–$200 range. At that discounted rate, the TKO-CX stands out as exceptional value, especially when you consider that many paddles with comparable technology and build quality are priced well above $250. For players looking for a reliable, tournament-ready paddle without paying top-tier prices, this deal makes the Bantam TKO-CX a very smart buy.
    Please Note: Mentioning the prices in dollars as the paddle is currently not sold outside the US.

    Who Should Use the Paddletek Bantam TKO-CX

    • Doubles players who value stability and resets
    • Players who struggle with paddle twisting on mishits
    • All-court players who want a predictable response
    • Anyone looking for a pro-level paddle without paying premium prices

    Bantam TKO-CX vs Joola Perseus 3s vs Engage Pursuit Pro 1 Innovation vs Six Zero Double Black Diamond

    PaddleCore ThicknessPerformance FocusBest ForApprox. Price
    Paddletek Bantam TKO‑CX 12.7 mm12.7 mmQuick, poppy power + stable spinAggressive baseline / speed playMid-High
    Paddletek Bantam TKO‑CX 14.3 mm14.3 mmBalanced power + finesse, more dwellAll-court playersMid-High
    Engage Pursuit Pro1 Innovation12.7 / 15.2 mmSpin + variable power controlVersatile playersMid-High
    Six Zero Double Black Diamond~16 mmTouch + controlKitchen dominanceMid
    JOOLA Perseus 3SPremium corePower + spin mixPower playersPremium

    Final Verdict

    The Paddletek Bantam TKO-CX is quietly one of the most dependable paddles on the market. It doesn’t chase trends, but it absolutely performs where it matters consistency, stability, and confidence in tight moments.

    If you’re tired of paddles that feel unpredictable under pressure, the TKO-CX is worth serious consideration.

    FAQ

    Is the Paddletek Bantam TKO-CX good for beginners?

    It’s better suited for intermediate to advanced players, but confident beginners who value control and stability can grow into it.

    Which version is better: 12.7mm or 14.3mm?

    The 12.7mm offers more pop and quicker response. The 14.3mm provides better touch, control, and forgiveness — especially for doubles.

    Does the TKO-CX have good spin?

    Yes. The raw carbon face provides reliable spin, though it’s more about placement than extreme RPMs.

    Is this paddle head-heavy?

    No. Both versions feel well balanced with controlled swing weight.

    Is the handle good for two-handed backhands?

    Absolutely. The 5.75″ handle length is one of its strengths.

    How durable is the Paddletek Bantam TKO-CX?

    Very durable. The carbon face and core hold up well over extended play with minimal performance drop-off.

    Is the paddle worth the price?

    At its price point, it offers excellent value compared to many higher-priced “power” paddles.

  • What is the Two-Handed Grip in Pickleball

    The two handed grip in pickleball has gone from being a niche technique to something you now see regularly at higher levels of play. What used to feel unconventional is quickly becoming normal, especially on the backhand side.

    If you’ve ever struggled with backhand consistency, lacked power from the baseline, or felt rushed during fast exchanges, a two-handed grip might be exactly what your game needs.

    Before proceeding further, I would like to reemphasize the fact that the only way these grips will help improve your game is by doing drills regularly. Use rec games as a source of enjoyment, and if you are serious about improving in Pickleball, then drills are the only way to get there.

    What Is a Two-Handed Grip in Pickleball?

    A two-handed grip in pickleball simply means using both hands on the paddle handle during a shot, most commonly on the backhand. The dominant hand stays at the base of the handle, while the non-dominant hand is placed above it for support, leverage, and control.

    This grip borrows heavily from tennis mechanics, but it’s adapted for pickleball’s shorter swings and quicker pace.

    Most players don’t use a two-handed grip for every shot; instead, they rely on it in specific situations where stability and power matter.

    Benefits of the Two-Handed Grip in Pickleball

    More stability on the backhand

    One-handed backhands can feel shaky under pressure, especially when the ball comes fast. The second hand stabilizes the paddle and reduces wrist breakdown, which leads to cleaner contact.

    Easier power without overswinging

    With two hands on the paddle, you can generate power using your shoulders and core rather than your arm alone. This makes baseline backhands and counterattacks feel more controlled.

    Better control on fast balls

    During speed-ups and fast-hand battles, the two-handed grip keeps the paddle face steady. Blocks and counters tend to stay lower instead of popping up.

    Confidence against aggressive opponents

    When opponents target your backhand, having two hands on the paddle removes that feeling of being rushed or exposed.

    When the Two-Handed Grip Works Best

    The two-handed grip will make you feel more comfortable when pace and pressure are involved. For eg, if your opponent has a good serve and he/she is serving deep onto your backhand, countering it with a double-handed backhand drive will help you give a deep return, which will force your opponent to stay at the baseline.

    It’s especially effective for:

    • Backhand drives from the baseline
    • Two-handed roll volleys
    • Countering speed-ups at the kitchen
    • Returning hard serves
    • Backhand passing shots in singles

    Many players also use a two-handed grip on overhead backhands when they’re stretched wide.

    When you should not use the Two-Handed Grip in Pickleball

    Despite its benefits, the two-handed grip isn’t perfect.

    Limited reach

    Using two hands shortens your reach slightly. On wide balls or quick flicks near the net, a one-handed shot may be the better option.

    Slower transitions

    If you’re late getting into position, adding the second hand can slow your reaction time. This is why many players switch back to one hand for reflex volleys.

    Not ideal for soft shots

    Dinks and resets often require a softer touch and wrist freedom. Two hands can make those shots feel stiff unless you deliberately relax the grip. Although this is debatable, as I do recommend two-handed dinks on the backhand side, but the trick is to get into position quickly and identify when to use both hands.

    How to Hold a Two Handed Grip Correctly

    The most common setup looks like this:

    • Dominant hand at the base of the handle (continental or slight eastern)
    • Non-dominant hand above it, usually in an eastern forehand position
    • Both hands relaxed, not squeezing

    The non-dominant hand does more work than most players realize. Think of it as guiding the paddle rather than just supporting it.

    Pro tip: During drills, hit the first 20-30 balls using only your non-dominant hand and then gradually use both hands once you have got a good rhythm going with your non-dominant hand.

    Two-Handed Backhand vs One-Handed Backhand

    The two-handed backhand offers more consistency and power, especially under pressure. The one-handed backhand provides more reach and finesse, which can be helpful at the kitchen.

    That’s why many advanced players use both grips, two hands for drives and counters, one hand for touch and emergency shots.

    Popular opinion: Having a two-handed backhand drive in Pickleball makes you as stylish as having a single-handed backhand drive in Tennis.

    Do Pros Use a Two-Handed Grip in Pickleball?

    Yes, now more than ever. Many top players rely on a two-handed backhand, particularly during fast-paced rallies and aggressive baseline exchanges. The modern game of pickleball is faster, equipements are co,n,stantly upgrading, and the two-handed grip helps players keep up without losing control.

    It’s no longer seen as a beginner crutch. It’s a legitimate, high-level technique.

    Common Mistakes Players Make

    Holding the paddle too tight

    Tension kills control. A relaxed grip leads to better touch and quicker reactions.

    Using it for every shot

    The two-handed grip works best when used selectively. Forcing it into every situation limits your versatility.

    Standing too close to the ball

    Two-handed shots need space. Good footwork is essential.

    How to Practice the Two-Handed Grip

    Start simple:

    • Rally crosscourt using only two-handed backhands
    • Play out a few balls with your non-dominant hand (This is only during drill practice and not warm-ups)
    • Practice blocking speed-ups with both hands
    • Hit baseline drives focusing on shoulder rotation, not arm swing

    Consistency comes from repetition, not power.

    Is the Two-Handed Grip Right for You?

    The two-handed grip is a great option if:

    • Your backhand feels like a weakness
    • You face a lot of pace-heavy opponents
    • You want more control during fast exchanges
    • You play singles or aggressive doubles

    If your game is built around touch and finesse at the kitchen, you may only need it occasionally. However, I recommend having the Two-handed backhand in every player’s arsenal.

    Final Thoughts

    The two-handed grip in pickleball isn’t just a trend, as it is a response to how fast Pickleball has become. Used correctly, it adds stability, confidence, and power without sacrificing control.

    The key is knowing when to use it and when to let go. Once you find that balance, the two-handed grip becomes a reliable tool rather than a limitation.

  • What is Western Grip in Pickleball

    The Western grip in pickleball tends to split opinions. Some players love the heavy topspin it creates, while others struggle to keep the ball out of the net when using it. Most of that comes down to how pickleball is played compared to tennis. The court is smaller, the ball stays lower, net dimensions are shorter, and points are decided much faster. Because of that, the Western grip isn’t something most players should heavily rely on; however, once you learn when to use the grip, it will definitely elevate your overall game.

    What the Western Grip Actually Is

    With a Western grip, your hand sits well underneath the paddle handle. For right-handed players, the index knuckle lands on the fifth bevel, which naturally closes the paddle face. You don’t have to force topspin; it shows up on its own because of how the paddle meets the ball.

    That closed face encourages a steep, upward swing. In tennis, where balls bounce higher, and you have more time, that works beautifully. In pickleball, it’s a lot more situational.

    How do You Know You’re Using a Western Grip

    If your paddle face looks closed before you even swing, that’s a giveaway. Another sign is how much effort it takes to clear the net. Players using a Western grip often feel like they need a bigger swing just to keep the ball in play.

    You’ll also notice that flat shots feel awkward, while brushing up the back of the ball feels natural. That’s the grip doing what it’s designed to do.

    Benefits of the Western Grip

    It creates heavy topspin without much effort

    The biggest advantage of the Western grip is how easily it produces topspin. You can swing hard and still bring the ball down inside the court. For players who like to attack from the baseline, that confidence matters.

    Forehands jump off the court

    When you catch the ball clean, forehands hit with a Western grip tend to kick up after the bounce. In singles, that can push opponents back or force weaker replies.

    It feels familiar to tennis players

    Players coming from tennis often land in a Western grip without thinking about it. The swing mechanics feel comfortable, especially on full forehand swings.

    Also Read: Types of Grips Used in Pickleball

    Where the Western Grip Starts Causing Problems

    This is where most pickleball players run into trouble.

    The soft game becomes harder

    Dinking, drops, and resets require a neutral paddle face. With a Western grip, the face is already closed, so soft shots tend to die into the net unless you consciously open the face. That extra adjustment makes consistency tough.

    Fast exchanges at the kitchen feel rushed

    Pickleball happens quickly at the net. With a Western grip, switching from forehand to backhand takes longer, and blocking speed-ups becomes less reliable. The paddle just isn’t in a neutral position.

    Low balls are difficult

    Pickleball balls don’t bounce high, especially near the kitchen. The Western grip wants the ball up in your strike zone. When contact drops lower, the grip works against you.

    Backhands feel uncomfortable

    Unless you’re using a two-handed backhand, the Western grip makes quick backhand shots awkward. Many players end up late or jammed because the grip isn’t designed for that side.

    Also Read: Types of shots played in Pickleball

    When to use the Western Grip in a match

    The Western grip can still be effective when you have time and height on the ball.

    It works best for:

    • Singles baseline forehands
    • High-bouncing shots
    • Heavy topspin passing shots
    • Full-swing forehand drives

    In these moments, the grip helps you swing freely without worrying about hitting long

    Common Mistakes Players Make With This Grip

    Using it for every shot

    This is the biggest mistake. Pickleball isn’t a baseline-only game. Staying in a Western grip at the kitchen almost guarantees problems.

    Swinging harder instead of smarter

    Because the grip encourages topspin, players often overswing. That leads to timing issues and unnecessary errors.

    Never switching grips

    Better players switch grips without thinking about it. Sticking to one grip limits what you can do and makes your game predictable.

    How Better Players Use the Western Grip

    Advanced players treat the Western grip like a tool, not a default setting. They might use it for an aggressive forehand, then immediately move back to a continental grip as they approach the net.

    That ability to switch grips quickly is what keeps their game balanced.

    Western vs Eastern vs Continental

    The Western grip gives you the most topspin but the least forgiveness. The Eastern forehand grip sits in the middle, offering power with more control. The continental grip is the most reliable choice for net play, defense, and soft shots.

    Most players end up using all three just at different times. Again, the key to being efficient with all three grips is to identify when the right time is to use them.

    Final Thoughts

    The Western grip in pickleball isn’t wrong, it’s just demanding. It rewards good timing and full swings, but it punishes hesitation and poor touch. For most players, the real skill isn’t learning the Western grip; it’s knowing when to let it go.

    Used in the right moments, it can add another layer to your forehand. Used everywhere, it usually does more harm than good.

  • What is Eastern Forehand Grip in Pickleball?

    If you’re looking to add more power and topspin to your pickleball game, the Eastern forehand grip is one of the easiest ways to do it. While the continental grip is the go-to choice for net play and soft shots, many players naturally switch to an Eastern forehand grip when they want to attack from the baseline or put extra pace on the ball.

    This grip isn’t complicated, but using it at the right time is what separates smart players from those who spray balls long.

    What Is the Eastern Forehand Grip in Pickleball?

    The Eastern forehand grip places your hand slightly more underneath the paddle compared to the continental grip. This position naturally closes the paddle face, making it easier to generate topspin and forward drive through the ball.

    Think of it as the grip that helps you hit through the court rather than float the ball.

    If you’ve played tennis before, this grip will feel very familiar.

    If you are a complete beginner then you can learn how to hold a paddle properly here

    How to Find the Eastern Forehand Grip

    Here’s the simplest way to get into the correct position:

    1. Start with a continental grip
    2. Rotate your hand slightly clockwise (for right-handed players)
    3. Your index knuckle should rest on the third bevel of the handle
    4. The paddle face will feel just a bit closed

    A good way to analyse if you are doing it right is:
    If your forehand drive naturally dips into the court with topspin, you’re holding it correctly.

    Why the Eastern Forehand Grip Is So Effective

    Easy power without overswinging

    This grip lets the paddle face stay closed through contact, so you don’t need to swing harder to generate pace. The ball drives forward instead of floating.

    Natural topspin

    Because your hand sits more under the paddle, brushing up the back of the ball feels automatic. This helps shots drop inside the baseline instead of sailing long.

    Better depth on serves and returns

    Many players use an Eastern forehand grip on serves and serve returns because it allows for consistent depth with margin.

    Confidence on third-shot drives

    If you prefer to drive your third shot instead of dropping it, this grip will give you more control and shape through the ball.

    Best use cases of the Eastern Forehand Grip

    The Eastern forehand grip shines in attacking situations:

    • Baseline forehands
    • Third-shot drives
    • Deep serve returns
    • Passing shots in singles
    • Roll volleys from mid-court
    • Forehand speed-ups

    It’s especially popular among players who like to dictate play early in the rally.

    When not to use the Eastern Forehand Grip

    As good as it is to generate power, this grip does have certain limitations

    Soft game struggles

    Dinks, drops, and resets can pop up if you don’t open the paddle face intentionally. That’s why most players switch back to continental near the kitchen.

    Also Read: Types of shots in Pickleball

    Slower transitions at the net

    Fast hands battles require quick forehand-to-backhand adjustments. With an Eastern grip, those transitions take longer.

    Backhand inconsistency

    Unless you’re using a two-handed backhand, the Eastern forehand grip isn’t friendly on the backhand side.

    Common Mistakes Players Make

    Holding the grip too extreme

    Some players rotate too far, turning it into a semi-western grip. This causes balls to dive into the net.

    Using it everywhere

    The Eastern grip works best when used selectively. Trying to dink or block volleys with it often leads to errors.

    Over-swinging

    The grip already creates power. Swinging too hard reduces control instead of increasing it.

    How Pros and Advanced Players Use This Grip

    Most advanced players don’t commit to one grip for the entire point. Instead, they:

    • Use continental at the net
    • Switch to Eastern forehand at the baseline
    • Rotate back quickly during transitions

    This grip awareness is a big reason higher-level players look so smooth and controlled.

    Simple Drills to Practice the Eastern Forehand Grip

    Topspin Drive Drill

    Stand at the baseline and focus on brushing up the ball while keeping shots inside the court.

    Serve + Return Practice

    Hit 20 serves and returns using only the Eastern grip and aim for deep targets.

    Third-Shot Drive Consistency

    Alternate between driving crosscourt and down the line without switching grips mid-swing.

    Is the Eastern Forehand Grip Right for You?

    If you’re a power-oriented player, a singles specialist, or someone who loves attacking from the baseline, the Eastern forehand grip can immediately upgrade your game.

    For doubles players, it’s best used as a situational grip, not a full-time one.

    Final Thoughts

    The Eastern forehand grip is all about controlled aggression. Used correctly, it gives you easy power, natural topspin, and confidence on attacking shots. Just remember, it works best when paired with a solid continental grip for touch and net play.

    Mastering when to switch between the two is one of the biggest steps toward becoming a smarter, more complete pickleball player.

    Also Read: What are the different types of grips in Pickleball

  • What is Continental Grip in Pickleball

    If you’ve been playing pickleball for a while, you’ve probably heard players, coaches, or even those self-proclaimed experts mention the continental grip. It is one of the most widely used and most versatile grips in the sport. Whether you’re new to pickleball or trying to clean up your fundamentals, the continental grip is one of those “small changes” that can instantly upgrade how clean, controlled, and confident your shots feel.

    This guide breaks down everything you need to know about what the continental grip is, how to find it, when to use it, and why so many advanced players rely on it.

    What Is the Continental Grip in Pickleball?

    Think of the continental grip as a neutral, all-purpose grip that sits right between the forehand and backhand sides of the paddle. We can also call it as the “default” grip in pickleball, because you can hit almost every shot with it without having to constantly adjust your paddle angle.

    For those of you who have a background in tennis, the continental grip in pickleball is very similar to the tennis “continental” or “hammer grip,” except a little more relaxed due to the lighter paddle.

    How to Find the Continental Grip

    There are complicated diagrams that you will find online which make it look way more complicated than it actually is, so we broke it down into 5 simple steps:

    1. Hold your paddle like a hammer, just as if you’re about to pound a nail.
    2. Your index knuckle should land on the top-right bevel (for right-handed players).
    3. Your palm sits slightly behind the handle rather than under it.
    4. The paddle face should feel naturally vertical, not tilted.

    The easiest way we can describe it is to think that you are shaking hands with the paddle. No twisting, no adjusting, just a natural handshake motion.

    If your paddle feels neutral and relaxed in your hand, you’re doing it right.

    Why the Continental Grip works so well in Pickleball

    It’s the best grip for dinks and resets

    The continental grip gives you a straight paddle face, that allows you to gently lift dinks and smooth out your drops. It also helps you cushion fast incoming balls during resets.

    This is why almost every high-level doubles player you see at the kitchen line uses it.

    Also Read: What are the different types of grips used in Pickleball

    Quick transitions between forehand and backhand

    Pickleball is fast, especially in doubles. You don’t always have time to rotate your grip.

    With the continental grip, your paddle is already aligned for both sides.

    Better control in the soft game

    Because the paddle sits vertically in your hand, it’s easier to keep your paddle angle steady, which is essential for soft hands, precise drops, and consistent net play.

    Excellent for volleys and counters

    Fast-hands battles become smoother because you’re not fighting the paddle angle. You simply block and punch, and the ball goes where you expect.

    Works well with T-700 carbon fiber paddles

    Most raw carbon paddles create spin naturally. Combine that with the neutral face of the continental grip, and you get a controlled shape without having to over-whip your wrist.

    When to Use the Continental Grip

    You can use it for almost every shot in Pickleball which is why I highly recommend this grip for everyone who is just starting out in pickleball and paticularly for players from a non racket sport background.

    The only time this grip is not so effective is when you want to hit a heavy topspin drives and very aggressive forehands. For those, you will need to switch to an Eastern forehand grip.

    Also Read: Types of shots in Pickleball

    Common Mistakes When Learning the Continental Grip

    Holding the paddle too tightly

    This grip works best with relaxed fingers and a soft wrist. If you’re squeezing too hard, dinks will float, and resets will bounce up as you are not letting the paddle absorb the impact of the ball.

    Tilting the paddle face open

    Beginners often open the face by accident, causing dinks to sail high. Keep the paddle vertical until you intentionally change the angle.

    Switching grips too often

    The whole point of the continental grip is its simplicity. Don’t overthink it, let it be your default, and rotate only when a shot truly demands it.

    Using it on extreme topspin drives

    It technically works, but it’s not comfortable. For power drives, most players rotate slightly toward an Eastern forehand.

    How to Practice the Continental Grip

    Kitchen Line Dink Drill

    Just stand at the kitchen and dink 50 balls crosscourt or straight on. Focus on keeping the paddle face still.

    Paddle-Up Volleys

    Hold the paddle out in front of you and have a partner fire light volleys. Try to block them back using only your shoulder and minimal wrist.

    Slow Drop Progressions

    Start at the baseline and practice dropping balls into the kitchen. The continental grip will help the ball roll off the face instead of popping up.

    Also Read: Best Solo Drills in Pickleball

    Is the Continental Grip Right for You?

    If you play doubles, the answer is almost always yes. If you play singles, you might mix in more forehand grip variations, but you’ll still rely on the continental grip for defense and touch.

    It’s simple, reliable, and makes your game feel more connected, especially at the kitchen.

    Final Thoughts

    The continental grip isn’t some fancy pro-only technique. It’s the foundation of clean, controlled, and consistent pickleball. Whether you’re just starting or trying to level up from 3.0 to 4.0+, mastering this grip will make the game feel easier and more predictable.

    And the best part?
    It doesn’t require a massive swing change, just a comfortable, natural way of holding your paddle that supports every part of your game.

  • Detailed review of the Engage Pursuit Pro1 Innovation paddle

    Detailed review of the Engage Pursuit Pro1 Innovation paddle

    I spent a little over two weeks switching between the 12.7 mm and 15.2 mm Engage Pursuit Pro1 Innovation paddles, and my experience with the two couldn’t have been more different. I’ll start with the obvious: the 12.7 mm is noticeably more head heavy, and because of that, I naturally gravitated toward it for singles. The 15.2 mm, on the other hand, felt surprisingly lighter in hand, well, not actually lighter in weight, but much better balanced, making it the easy pick for doubles pickleball

    First Impressions

    The first thing that caught me off guard was the handle. It’s thinner than almost anything else I’ve used, and I ended up putting an overgrip on it immediately. Without it, my hand felt like it was pinching the paddle instead of holding it. The shape is nice, the length is good, but out of the box, the grip is lean.

    Once I got past that, the differences between the two models started showing quickly.
    Another modification that I made was to add lead tape to the throat of both versions of the paddle, as I am a control-oriented player you will find that I make this modification to all the paddles I use while collecting data for my review articles. For the 15.2mm paddle I ended up using tungsten tape and added strips from the throat to the center of the paddle as this allowed me to unlock a larger sweet spot on the paddle while maintaining control as well.

    12.7 mm — The Baseline Bully

    This version really shines from the back of the court. The extra head weight gives you that satisfying snap on drives, and you can shape the ball into some wicked corners if you get the timing right. During singles, I was hitting those deep heavy drives that force your opponent off balance, exactly what you want.

    However, the trade-off shows up immediately when you move into the soft game.

    My dinks started floating higher than I wanted, my drops weren’t dipping enough, and during fast-hand battles, the head weight made me feel just half a beat slower. Not slow-slow, but just enough to lose exchanges I’d normally win.

    For singles, though? I loved it. It felt like a weapon. You need to be comfortable sacrificing a bit of touch.

    15.2 mm — The Doubles Workhorse

    Switching to the 15.2 mm was honestly a little confusing at first because it felt lighter than the 12.7 mm, which is the opposite of what you’d expect. But it comes down to how evenly the weight is spread out. It doesn’t tug your arm forward the same way, and because of that, it’s a lot easier to control on short balls.

    I noticed the difference in touch right off the bat (pun intended). My dinks stayed low, my drops actually landed where I wanted, and my backhand punches didn’t sail long the way they sometimes do with stiffer paddles. And when the game sped up, this version really came alive. My hands felt quicker, cleaner, and more in control.

    Power-wise, it’s not as naturally explosive as the 12.7 mm. Drives and serves still carried good depth, but you don’t get that automatic “ball jumps off the face with shape” feeling. But honestly, for doubles, I’d rather have control than violent power, and that’s what the 15.2 mm gives you.

    Technology Breakdown

    Engage packs a lot of tech terms into their marketing, but here’s what actually matters on court:

    Power Flex Polymer Core

    This is the heart of the paddle. It gives the paddle a slightly longer dwell time, meaning the ball lingers for a split second. Not mushy, not overly soft — just enough to help with control. It takes a couple of sessions to fully get used to, but once you do, it becomes predictable in a good way.

    Raw Toray T700 Carbon Fiber Face

    Great spin, great ball bite. You’ll notice it more on drives and heavy drops than on trick shots.

    Optimized Twist-Weight & Torque Acceleration

    This helps with stability on off-center hits and contributes to the pop on the 12.7 mm version. It cuts down the vibration and gives the paddle a very “connected” feel.

    Durability

    Engage paddles have always held up well for me. With this one, I’ve seen people get a year or more comfortably. Grit starts wearing around month eight, but it’s still very playable. For the price (especially when discounted), it’s a solid long-term paddle.

    Comparison With Similar Paddles

    PaddleStrengthsWeaknessesBest For
    Engage Pursuit Pro1 Innovation (12.7/15.2)Great spin, choice of power vs control, excellent dwell timeThin handle, 12.7 mm soft game needs practiceSingles (12.7 mm), Doubles (15.2 mm)
    Paddletek BantamSolid feel, dependable controlNot as much spin or shaping abilityPlayers who want a classic feel with modern pop
    Six Zero Double Black DiamondInsane stability, clean controlNot the most powerful paddleControl-heavy, doubles-focused players
    JOOLA Perseus 3SBig power + modern carbon faceCan feel stiff to some playersPlayers who like a firmer, more aggressive paddle

    Please note: I have made this comparison table based on how similar the Engage Pro1 Innovation paddles feel to the paddles I have used

    Final Thoughts

    What I liked most about the Pro1 Innovation line is that the two thickness options feel like two genuinely different paddles, not just “more or less foam.”

    • If you’re a singles player, the 12.7 mm does almost all the heavy lifting for you.
    • If you’re a doubles player, the 15.2 mm gives you control and confidence exactly where you need it.

    At its discounted price point, it’s an easy paddle to recommend — especially if you’ve been wanting something that blends modern spin with a clean, controlled feel.

    FAQs

    Is the Engage Pursuit Pro1 Innovation USAP approved?

    Yes, the Pro1 Innovation line is USAP-approved for competitive play. Both the 12.7 mm and 15.2 mm models meet approval standards.

    What’s the difference between the 12.7 mm and 15.2 mm versions?

    The 12.7 mm is more head-heavy, offering more pop and shape on drives, making it better for singles. The 15.2 mm has a more even weight distribution, giving you better touch, softer control, and quicker hands for doubles.

    Which version is better for spin?

    Both use a Raw Toray T700 carbon face, so spin is strong on both. The 12.7 mm may feel slightly spinnier on aggressive swings due to its head-heavy balance.

    Is the handle comfortable?

    The handle is on the thinner side, and many players add an overgrip immediately for comfort and better hold.

    How does the paddle perform in the soft game?

    The 15.2 mm performs noticeably better for dinks, drops, resets, and fast hands. The 12.7 mm can make soft play trickier due to its swing weight.

    Does the Engage Pursuit Pro1 Innovation have good power?

    The 12.7 mm definitely does it produces crisp drives and deep serves. The 15.2 mm has controlled power, not overwhelming, but enough for consistent depth.

    How long does the paddle last?

    Expect well over a year of durability. Surface grit starts wearing after 7–8 months, depending on play volume, but the paddle remains very playable.

    Is the Pursuit Pro1 Innovation good for beginners?

    It can be, but beginners may find the 12.7 mm a little too lively. The 15.2 mm is friendlier thanks to its control-focused feel and stability.

    How does the paddle compare to other top paddles?

    It offers more customization (power vs control versions) than most, strong spin, and one of the more predictable cores. If you like a paddle with a balanced feel and modern carbon performance, it competes well.

    Is it worth the price?

    At its retail price itself, I would recommend this paddle, and at discounted pricing, it’s a great value, especially for beginners and intermediate players

  • Types of Pickleball Grips

    There are several ways to hold a pickleball paddle, and each grip style comes with its own strengths, weaknesses, and ideal use cases. Some grips help you switch more quickly between forehands and backhands, some help you generate more spin, while others give you better touch at the kitchen. Understanding these grip styles and knowing when to use or avoid them can dramatically improve your consistency and confidence on the court.

    Below, you’ll find every major pickleball grip explained in detail, including how to form it, what it’s best used for, and the downsides every player should know. Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned player looking to refine your technique, this guide covers everything.
    Before reading further, also check: How to play Pickleball with proper rules and how to hold a paddle if you are a complete beginner

    Continental Grip

    The Continental grip is the most commonly used grip in pickleball. To form it, place your index knuckle on the second bevel of the paddle handle. Think of how you would hold a hammer or how you would shake someone’s hand. For right-handed players, the wrist turns slightly counterclockwise; for left-handers, slightly clockwise.

    This grip is considered a neutral position because it allows you to hit both forehands and backhands comfortably without adjusting your hand mid-point. It’s the go-to grip for most pros because they can transition quickly during fast exchanges and maintain great control at the kitchen.

    Advantages:

    • Great for quick transitions between forehand and backhand
    • Solid combination of control and power
    • Works well at the kitchen during hand battles
    • Reliable for dinks, blocks, and resets

    Disadvantages:

    • Not the best for generating extreme topspin
    • Requires more technique to create spin like a Western grip

    Eastern Grip

    With the Eastern grip, the index knuckle sits on the third bevel of the handle. To find it naturally, hold the paddle face with your opposite hand, place your hitting hand flat on the paddle face, and slide it down to the handle like you’re shaking hands lower on the paddle.

    This grip is particularly good for forehands because it aligns more naturally with how the hand sits on the handle. It provides excellent comfort and control, making it especially beginner-friendly.

    Advantages:

    • Comfortable and natural-feeling
    • Easier to control forehands and generate angles
    • Helps beginners develop confidence faster

    Disadvantages:

    • Limited topspin generation
    • Backhands are more difficult, especially low or wide shots
    • Can make slices and finesse shots harder to execute

    Western Grip

    The Western grip places the hand even further around the paddle, giving it more upward leverage. Start in an Eastern grip and turn your wrist 90 degrees clockwise (right-handers) or 90 degrees counterclockwise (left-handers).

    This grip is powerful for generating topspin, especially on the backhand. Though not as commonly used due to the smaller size of a pickleball paddle, many pros momentarily switch to it during rallies.

    Advantages:

    • Excellent topspin potential
    • Great for players who prefer upward brushing motion
    • Helps with heavy backhand topspin rolls

    Disadvantages:

    • Harder to control in the soft game
    • Accuracy suffers on dinks and short volleys
    • Can feel awkward for players coming from tennis

    Panhandle Grip

    The Panhandle grip is exactly what it sounds like, grabbing the handle of a pan. Your hand wraps naturally around the paddle with minimal rotation. It’s simple, relaxed, and comfortable.

    Advantages:

    • Very comfortable and beginner-friendly
    • Easy to use and feels natural in the hand
    • Supports consistent, repeatable mechanics

    Disadvantages:

    • Limited topspin or slice capability
    • Doesn’t offer the same control for finesse shots
    • Less power compared to other grips

    Two-Handed Grip

    Many players (even pros) use two hands especially on backhands. For right-handers, the left hand sits above the right; for left-handers, the opposite.

    This grip is popular because it adds stability, power, and precision, particularly on backhands and during volleys at the net.

    Advantages:

    • Increased stability and control
    • Great for powerful backhands
    • Reduces mishits in hand battles
    • Helps with two-handed dinks and resets

    Disadvantages:

    • Reduces reach
    • Harder to defend reactions shots
    • Uncomfortable for players with limited mobility

    Modified Semi-Western Grip

    Some players use a semi-Western grip, similar to tennis. It sits between the Eastern and Western grip and adds more topspin potential without sacrificing too much control.

    Advantages:

    • More topspin than Eastern
    • More control than Western
    • Great for roll volleys and aggressive third shots

    Disadvantages:

    • Still less versatile than Continental
    • Trickier during fast kitchen exchanges

    Choke-Up Grip

    This isn’t a “grip style” but a grip position. Players choke up by holding the paddle higher on the handle, sometimes touching the paddle neck.

    Advantages:

    • More control at the kitchen
    • Faster maneuverability
    • Great for hands battles

    Disadvantages:

    • Reduced reach
    • Reduced power on drives and overheads

    Extreme Continental

    This is a more pronounced version of the standard Continental grip, offering a slightly closed paddle face.

    Advantages:

    • Helps generate more spin
    • A favorite for aggressive volley players

    Disadvantages:

    Grip Pressure: The Most Overlooked Factor

    Grip pressure is often more important than the grip style itself. A tight grip leads to harsh rebounds, loss of control, and pop-ups that your opponents can punish. A looser grip around 3/10 pressure is ideal for touch shots, drops, dinks, and resets.

    “Looser is better” is a universal rule in pickleball.

    Choosing the Right Grip

    Ultimately, the “best” grip depends on your style of play, skill level, and the situation on the court. Many players switch grips mid-rally, especially at higher levels. What matters most is comfort, versatility, and being willing to adapt as your game grows.

    There is no single right or wrong way to hold the paddle. Find what works for you and don’t be afraid to experiment.

    FAQs

    What grip is best for beginners?
    The Continental grip is the best all-around starting point because it offers balance, control, and easy transitions between forehands and backhands.

    Which grip produces the most topspin?
    The Western grip generates the most topspin due to its extreme upward brushing angle.

    Is it okay to switch grips mid-rally?
    Yes. Many advanced players switch grips automatically depending on the shot they need.

    What grip is best for dinking?
    The Continental grip provides the best stability and control for soft shots at the kitchen.

    Which grip gives the most power?
    The two-handed backhand grip (for backhands) and the strong Continental variation (for forehands and overheads) generate excellent power.

    How do I know if my grip is too tight?
    If your shots feel “poppy,” or the paddle twists on impact, your grip is likely too tight. Aim for relaxed pressure.

  • How to hold a Pickleball Paddle

    How to hold a Pickleball Paddle

    If you’re new to pickleball, one of the fastest ways to improve long before you start working on spins, roll volleys, or fancy shots is learning how to hold your pickleball paddle correctly. It sounds basic, almost too simple to matter, but your grip is the foundation for everything you do on a pickleball court.

    A proper grip boosts your control, speeds up your reactions, improves your power, and helps you transition between offense and defense just like the pros. And take it from me, if you have no racket sport background then grip mistakes are the hardest habits to fix once you have already started playing pickleball. I have seen so many players getting no where with their game not because they lack skill but simply because they started with the wrong grip so they had to do a lot of unlearning before they started playing shots correctly

    In this article I will show you all the possible ways to hold a pickleball paddle the right way, how to switch grips in between shots and by the end of it you will learn which is the best one for you. Since I am a right handed player, I will share details from a right handed perspective, but if you’re left-handed simply reverse the directions and follow the same steps.

    What a Proper Pickleball Grip Really Means

    Anyone can wrap their hand around a paddle handle, but holding it correctly is something else entirely. A proper grip gives you a cleaner feel on dinks, more stability in fast hands rallies, sharper blocks, and smoother resets. It’s not about squeezing tighter it’s about positioning.

    You’ll find all kinds of grip tutorials online, but the one that forms the base of almost every advanced player’s game is the continental grip. Mastering it will simplify everything you’ll learn afterward.

    The Continental Grip (AKA the “Handshake Grip”)

    If you naturally hold your paddle like you’re shaking hands with it, you’re already doing a version of this grip. But setting it up intentionally makes a world of difference.

    To do it correctly:

    • Reach your hand toward the paddle like you’re greeting someone.
    • Wrap your fingers around the handle in a relaxed, natural position.
    • Look at the “V” formed by your thumb and index finger it should point straight up the paddle toward your face.

    That’s the continental grip. Simple, clean, and incredibly versatile. You can hit dinks, volleys, blocks, resets, drives, and even overheads without switching to a different grip.

    Variations: Neutral, Strong, and Weak Continental Grips

    The continental grip isn’t fixed in one exact position. Instead, it has subtle variations that act like fine-tuning adjustments. These tiny angles completely change how your paddle behaves, and advanced players use them constantly.

    Neutral Continental Grip

    This is your all-purpose, everyday grip. It keeps the paddle face stable and predictable.

    Use it for:

    • Dinks
    • Resets
    • Blocks
    • Clean forehand and backhand drives
    • Controlled volleys

    The “V” points straight up the paddle. You’ll use this around 80% of the time.

    Strong Continental Grip

    Rotate your hand slightly clockwise (lefties go counter-clockwise) so the “V” angles toward the paddle edge. Now your wrist, forearm, and paddle align with more leverage, giving you extra stability and power.

    Best used for:

    • Overheads
    • High put-aways
    • Offensive counterattacks
    • Driving forehands
    • Punch volleys at the chest

    If someone ever told you, “You hit so effortlessly!” its because you have a strong continental grip.

    Weak Continental Grip

    Rotate your hand in the opposite direction so the “V” points toward the other paddle edge. Most players never use this intentionally because it reduces power.

    But it does have uses:

    • Slices
    • Cuts
    • Defensive scrapes
    • High, soft roll-backs

    For most players, neutral and strong grips cover almost everything.

    Where to Hold the Paddle on the Court

    Knowing how to hold the paddle is one thing; knowing where to position it is just as important, here I am not referring to your wrist placement on the paddle handle, infact I am showing you the right posture to have, this will help you hit cleaner shots and not get caught in that awkward ‘chicken wing’ position.

    Neutral Ready Position

    This is your “home base,” and high-level players return to this posture constantly.

    Here’s what it looks like:

    • Paddle held in front of your chest
    • Elbow relaxed
    • Paddle tilted slightly forward
    • Wrist neutral not bent up or down
    • Optional: support the paddle lightly with your off-hand for stability

    This position gives you the quickest reaction window possible.

    At the Kitchen Line

    Your posture and mindset shift here because exchanges are fast and unforgiving.

    At the NVZ line:

    • Hold your paddle slightly higher (chest height or above)
    • Keep your knees bent
    • Weight leaning forward
    • Grip slightly stronger so the paddle doesn’t twist

    Never stand upright or let the paddle drop.

    Defending Power Shots or Blocking Drives

    Blocking drives is all about simplicity.

    • Keep the paddle in front
    • Hold the face slightly open
    • Absorb the ball rather than pushing at it
    • Use a neutral grip for stability

    Too strong a grip sends the ball sailing. Too weak and the paddle wobbles.

    Do You Need to Switch Grips Mid-Rally?

    Yes but don’t worry, you won’t even notice it after some practice. Just like tennis or badminton, your hand naturally adjusts mid-rally as certain shots require different leverage. Beginners often feel awkward switching grips, but it quickly becomes muscle memory. Eventually, you won’t think about grip changes at all they’ll happen automatically.

    Got a Grip on It?

    Learning how to hold your pickleball paddle properly is one of the easiest high-impact improvements you can make. If any of these grips feel strange at first, that’s normal. Stick with it. Your swing will get smoother, your blocks cleaner, and your fast hands more confident. Once the continental grip and its small variations become second nature, the rest of your game becomes far easier.

    FAQs

    What is the best grip for beginners?


    The continental (handshake) grip is the best starting point because it works for most shots and helps both forehand and backhand transitions.

    Should the paddle be held tightly or loosely?


    Firm but relaxed just like holding a hammer. Too tight = no control. Too loose = paddle twists.

    Do I need different grips for different shots?


    Eventually, yes. Neutral for most shots, strong for power.

    What grip is best for dinking?


    Neutral continental. It keeps your paddle face stable and low.

    How high should the paddle be at the net?


    Around chest height, slightly forward.

    Is switching grips mid-rally okay?


    Absolutely. With practice, it becomes second nature.

    Also Read: What are the basic pickleball rules?

  • Detailed review of the Joola Ben Johns Perseus IV paddle

    Detailed review of the Joola Ben Johns Perseus IV paddle

    After putting both the 14mm and 16mm Joola Perseus Pro IV paddles through six months of hard, competitive use, combined with regular drilling sessions, rec play, and even a few tournaments I feel confident saying this: these paddles are not everyone’s cup of tea, and yes even a pro player will need time to adapt to this paddle. However, once you find your rhythm with this paddle, you will begin to love the game even more.

    Both versions require a genuine break-in period, which honestly caught me off guard at first. The first few sessions felt stiff, almost like the paddles were holding back their real personality. But once you push through that 5–6-session drilling phase (yes drills, not just casual games), the Perseus Pro IV becomes a completely different beast.

    And the sound I have to give it to Joola, no other paddle comes close to that crisp silenced gunshot like sound when a pickleball meets the sweet shop of the Perseus pro IV. There is no better feeling than when your paddle makes good connection with a pickleball.

    On-Court Performance After Break-In

    Once fully broken in and dialed, both the 14mm and 16mm models of the Joola Perseur Pro IV really start to shine. Drives effortlesly sail off the paddle with serious pace and low trajectory. Baseline serves flatten out naturally which gives you more confidence to control the rally right from your serve. Dinks pick up a little extra spin without much extra hand action which makes it easier for you to disguise your speedups, And putaways? Let’s just say you do feel like Ben Johns while hitting them.

    A lot of reviewers claim there’s a big difference between the 14mm and the 16mm versions. In my experience, they actually play more alike than most people think. The core feel is similar, the performance ceiling is similar, and the forgiveness is pretty close too.

    If I had to pinpoint differences this is what I would have to say:

    • 14mm Perseus Pro IV:
      Slightly lighter, easier to whip, ideal for players whose natural hip rotation or kinetic chain isn’t super strong. I did add tungsten tape from the throat to the sweet spot on both sides which gave it better stability without making it too heavy. This model is definitely a bit lighter on the wrist as well.
    • 16mm Perseus Pro IV:
      Surprisingly complete right out of the box, even before adding any weight. This is actually one of the rare paddles where I didn’t feel the need to reach for tungsten tape which says a lot for me who is a control oriented player who needs more stability on the throat area of all my paddles. The Perseus Pro IV 16mm however has that ready-to-go stability that’s perfect for doubles.

    Both versions have one design note which i would like to see be made better is that the handle could use a few more millimeters. If you rely on two-handed backhands, you’ll understand what I am referring to.

    Which is the best fit for you?

    • Pick the 16mm if:
      You’re a doubles-first player who values stability and clean resets. It has that “plug and play” steadiness that makes it feel more tournament-ready.
    • Pick the 14mm if:
      Singles is your main game, or you prefer something a bit faster through the air. It still performs well in doubles once weighted properly.

    Pricing

    At $280, the Joola Perseus Pro IV definitely sits on the premium end of the pickleball paddle market. And here’s the honest truth durability can vary based on how often and how hard you play. If you like switching paddles every 4–6 months, or if money isn’t a concern, the price might not bother you. But if long-term value is a priority, there are more durable options out there with the same paddle features.

    For players entering higher-level tournaments or aspiring to play pro-level events, though, this paddle has the firepower and touch to justify the price tag.

    Customer Service

    Joola is known to be actively responsive to customer greivances which is evident in the manner of how they responded to the infamous Joola Mod15 Paddle incident, in general among my local pickleball community too there have not been any complains by any player who has used Joola Paddles, so overall I can say that Joola does care about its customers and once they do find a way to make their paddles more durable they would definitely dominate the paddle market globally.

    Dwell Time

    One thing that genuinely surprised me about the Joola Perseus Pro IV both the 14mm and 16mm models is the dwell time which is why I had to dedicate a seperate paragraph for it.

    At first, especially during the break-in period, the paddle can feel a bit stiff and almost too responsive, like it wants to fire the ball off quicker than you’re ready for (trampoline effect). But once you put in those 5–6 drilling sessions, the face starts to settle in beautifully. The ball stays on the paddle just long enough to give you that extra sense of control on dinks and counters, without ever feeling lul or dead. In fast-hands exchanges, the dwell time gives you confidence to redirect pace, and on topspin drives it allows you to really feel the ball sink into the surface before ripping through it. The 16mm version naturally offers a touch more grab and stability, but the 14mm equally matches up with a few customizations. Overall, the dwell time feels intentional, refined, and one of the reasons this paddle becomes so dangerous once you truly dial it in.

    FeaturePerseus Pro IV 14mmPerseus Pro IV 16mm
    Thickness14mm16mm
    FeelFast, crispPlush, controlled
    StabilityModerate (with tungsten becomes excellent)High
    Best ForSingles & fast hand battlesDoubles & stability seekers
    Break-In Time5–6 drilling sessions5–6 drilling sessions
    PowerHighHigh
    ControlVery goodExcellent
    Adds Swing Weight Easily?YesNo need
    Handle LengthSame (slightly short)Same (slightly short)

    Final Thoughts

    If you’re willing to put in the drilling time, the Perseus Pro IV rewards you with explosive power, excellent spin, and a crisp feedback that just feels addicting. It’s not the easiest paddle to pick up and instantly master—but once you get over that learning curve, both the 14mm and 16mm versions deliver top-tier performance that absolutely holds up in competitive play.

    Joola Perseus Pro IV vs Selkirk Boomstick vs Six Zero Opal vs Gearbox GX2

    Feature / PaddleJoola Perseus Pro IV (14mm)Joola Perseus Pro IV (16mm)Selkirk BoomstickSix Zero OpalGearBox GX2
    Typical feelSlightly quicker, lighter to rotate; more forgiving for singles footwork.Plum-ier feel, more stable at the kitchen; slightly more dwell.Solid, crisp, designed for power with a firm face.Balanced control-focused feel; great for dinks and resets.Modern hybrid feel: good control with a pop when wanted.
    Break-inNeeds break-in (a few drilling sessions) to open up.Same warms up in 4–6 sessions but feels great afterwards.Break-in tends to be shorter; responsive early.Moderate break-in; predictable quickly.Moderate; performs well after a week of regular use.
    Sweet spotGood; benefits noticeably from light tungsten on throat→sweet spot.Wide and forgiving; performed well without extra tape for the user.Generous sweet spot but can feel head-heavy on mishits.Focused sweet spot excellent control in center.Large sweet spot engineered for consistency.
    Power vs ControlMore control; less raw pop unless taped/weighted.Adds a touch more stability and power great for doubles.Leans power-forward superb drives and flat serves.Control-first dinks and resets shine.Versatile: strong drives and solid control for net play.
    Handle / GripHandle felt short for two-handers (user note).Same shorter handle; stable grip.Typically comfortable length; user preference varies.Usually good grip/length for two-handers.Ergonomic design; comfortable for long sessions.
    Tungsten tape needed?User added tungsten (throat→sweet spot) to improve stability.User didn’t feel it was necessary on 16mm.Often not needed; some players add small amounts to tune.Rarely needed; already control-oriented.Optional for fine tuning.
    Best forSingles players who want lighter rotation + doubles players who like a nimble blade (if taped).Doubles specialists and players who want added stability & dwell.Power players, baseline hitters, big drives.Players who prioritise control, dinks and resets.All-rounders who want a modern hybrid feel.
    Durability4-6 months4-6 months12 months or more10-12 months6-8months
    Price (approx)$280$280$333$250$279
    User takeaway (from your notes)Great for players wanting a lighter option but who don’t mind adding tape to stabilize.User favorite for doubles; felt complete without major mods.Powerful weapon with strong drives; needs adaptation.Superb for dinking and resets; less pop than power paddles.Balanced performerversatile for both singles/doubles.

    Please note: Durability is subject to how you use the paddle, I based my analysis considering 2 drill sessions and 3 rec plays in a week

    FAQs

    Does the Perseus Pro IV actually need a break-in period?

    Yes. Both the 14mm and 16mm versions improve dramatically after several drilling sessions.

    Is the Joola Perseus Pro IV14mm or 16mm better for beginners?

    The 16mm is more forgiving. However, neither version is “beginner-friendly” in the traditional sense.

    Is tungsten/Lead tape necessary?

    For the 16mm, not really. For the 14mm, tungsten tape on the throat and sides improves stability and enlarges the sweet spot.

    How is the durability compared to other premium paddles?

    Durability is decent but not exceptional. Players who hit hard daily may need to replace it within 6–9 months.

    Can I use this paddle for both singles and doubles?

    Yes, but singles players may prefer the quicker 14mm version.